A boat journey through Kerala’s through Kuttanad
Country, a 75km stretch of shimmering waterways and dense
tropical greenery wedged between the hills and the sea,
an area so vividly and poignantly described in Arundhati
Roy’s remarkable novel, The God of Small Things,
is one of the most memorable experiences any traveller
could have in India.
Traversing the labyrinth of waterways in a traditional
kettuvallam, a long rice barge that has been converted
into a ‘houseboat’, allows you deep insights
into rural life. Hours slip by easily as you gaze ashore,
soaking up a myriad of views as you pass homes, farms,
paddy fields, fisherfolk in traditional dugouts, children
playing and bathing buffaloes. See fish eagles circling
for prey and wise cormorants perched on the riverbank
deep in thought.
Today’s houseboats are reworked kettuvallams of
olden times; the rice and spice barges that used to transport
harvests from Kuttanad to Kochi for sale. During these
times a portion of the kettuvallam was covered with bamboo
and coir to serve as a restroom and kitchen for the crew.
Meals would be cooked on board and supplemented with fresh
fish from the backwaters. Today, the tradition is continued
with sumptuous Keralan feasts served up for lucky guests.
Most of the houseboats – they are around 150 around
Alapppuzha – have been designed with natural materials:
bamboo mats, sticks and wood of the aracanut tree are
used for roofing, coir mats and wooden planks for the
flooring and wood of coconut trees and coir for beds.
For lighting, though, solar panels are used. Today, the
houseboats have all the creature comforts of a good hotel
including furnished bedrooms, modern toilets, cozy living
rooms, a kitchen and even a balcony for angling.
Most of our backwater cruises start from either Kumarakom
or Alleppey. We recommend a minimum one-night stay on
the houseboat, although day trips can be arranged. The
most popular and scenic stretch of waterways is between
Kollam and Alappuzha (Alleppey). The journey all the way
from Kumarakom to Kollam is a two-night, three-day trip.
All the houseboats are staffed and accommodation is organised
on a full board basis. Air-conditioned houseboats cost
approximately £15 extra per person each night.
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