Day 1 & 2:
Upon arriving in Sri Lanka, transfer to Horathapola
Estate, a small planter’s house set in a fruit and spice
estate a short 45-minute drive from the airport. This planter’s
bungalow is an ideal haven for acclimatising to Sri Lanka’s
tropical climes and rejuvenating after the long flight. This
is also a good opportunity to catch up with Javanah, the owner
of Hathapola who is also the nature expert on the Kulu Safari
to Wilpattu and later, on your safari to the Yala wildlife sanctuary.
Accommodation profile: Horathopala
is a small five bedroom British planter's bungalow that was
built in the 1920's. The building design follows the traditional
architectural style of columns and verandahs.
Ancestral antique furniture, including four-poster beds lined
with handmade lace, gives a glimpse of this idyllic Planter’s
lifestyle. Surrounded by well-clipped lawns and breathtaking
hardwood trees, ample bird song and butterflies, all contribute
to a calm and peaceful atmosphere that can be best enjoyed just
relaxing in a Planter’s chair in the verandah with a good
book and a cup of tea.
The estate, which produces coconut, mango, pineapple and spices,
is still run by the Fernando family, Javanah and Pia, who add
a friendly, laid-back but efficient air. The Sri Lankan rice
and curries cooked in traditional clay pots over a firewood
flame are mouth-wateringly delicious with many of the ingredients
grown on the state.
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Day 3 & 4:
Setting off after a leisurely breakfast, you will
drive north along the coastal road towards Wilpattu National
Park. As far as Sri Lanka’s National Parks go, Wilpattu
probably offers the most diverse wildlife experience. First
of all, it is an excellent place to see all of the ‘big
game’ on offer in Sri Lanka (elephants, leopards, water
buffalo), as well as countless other animals, birds and vegetation.
Secondly, it contains several unusual features, including
a small fishing village, coastal cliff-tops as well as a definitive
collection of ‘villus’ (freshwater lakes), all
of which provide additional interest. Thirdly, because the
park is situated in northern Sri Lanka, it does not fall into
the common tourist loops and this means that it is utterly
unspoilt and can be enjoyed in tranquil seclusion.
Driving there directly, the journey should take 2 to 3 hours,
but you have the option of stopping off at the Puttalam en
route to browse the town’s fish-markets and have some
lunch. At the entrance to the park, where you obtain your
park permit and tracker, you and your luggage will be placed
in the capable hands of Kulu Safaris, the premier game park
operators in Sri Lanka. They will take you to right into the
heart of the park to one of their fantastic camping locations.
Accommodation profile: Having set up
a few days prior to your arrival, Kulu’s campsites are
beautifully laid out with canvas tents, sturdy hammocks, hot
and cold showers, wooden tables and chairs. On the campsite
itself, there will be endless points of interest, whether
looking out over a waterhole at breakfast, snoozing in a hammock
after lunch or stargazing over dinner.
Guests are invited (but not forced!) to rise just before dawn
for a hot cup of tea or coffee, before setting off for a morning
game drive conducted by Kulu’s expert naturalist, Javanah
Fernando, who is very willing to focus on any particular interests
that you may have, be these leopards, birds or trees. For
the game drives, Kulu use their very own customized Toyota
Hiluxes, the best safari vehicles available in the island.
These handle every kind of terrain, give an excellent view
and are specially fitted with camera support points for photographers.
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Day 5 & 6:
After a hearty breakfast and farewell game drive, you
leave Wilpattu, travelling inland and south towards Dambulla.
All in all, the journey should take 2 to 3 hours, but you have
the option of breaking the journey by stopping off for at Ritigala
and climb through the nature reserve to an ancient monastic
complex.
This visit will give you a satisfying feel of nature as well
as history and an appreciation of the great Hindu legend of
Ramayana. Remains of an ancient monastery can be seen on the
hillside, as well as several drip-ledge caves with pre-Christian
inscriptions. Ritigala is a refuge for many species of birds
as well as a variety of plants, some of which are endemic to
Ritigala Nature Reserve. Drive on to Dambulla where you will
be staying at the Kandalama Hotel, a naturalist’s paradise
that snakes along the rocky outcrop of a tropical jungle, which
is overlooked, by Kandalama tank and the Knuckles Mountain Range.
For those that can tear themselves away from the hotel, there
are various areas of interest within close range. Sigiriya Rock
is particularly recommended for 2 to 3 hours gentle walking
in the cool of the morning or evening.
Accommodation profile: Kandalama:
the name has come to symbolise the best in Sri Lankan modern
ecological design. Situated in Dambulla, on the southern fringe
of the cultural triangle, it snakes along a rocky outcrop overlooked
by Kandalama tank and the impressive Knuckles hills. Kandalama
is a naturalists's dream. Stroll along its restful, atmospheric
corridors and you may spot a tame monkey, or some of the 160
resident bird species.
Day 7, 8 & 9:
Leave Kandalama in the morning to continue your journey south,
skirting round the central highlands and through the peak wilderness
to the tea estates of Dickoya. It is quite a long drive (4 to
5 hours), but the dramatic scenery will make the journey fly
by. At over 5000 feet above sea level, you will be staying in
one of ‘Tea Trails’ luxurious bungalows. Making
your utterly self-indulgent home here for three days, you will
have many adventurous activities at your disposal - trekking,
biking, kayaking, white-water rafting, rock climbing, paragliding
and golf. A 'Tea Experience' is also offered, providing interesting
insights into the growth and manufacture of tea, Sri Lanka's
most famous crop.
We particularly recommend a day-trip to the Horton Plains, another
of those startling places, which testify to the diversity of
Sri Lanka. This impressive mountain plateau, consisting of open
grassland, rolling hills and running streams, wouldn’t
look at all out of place in the highlands of Scotland. Visitors
are invited to take a day pass which allows them to follow a
relatively accessible 10km trek encountering all sorts of unusual
flora and fauna as well as other geological features such as
Baker’s Falls and World’s End, which offers arguably
the finest views in the country. From here, depending on your
preference, you can drive or trek back to your bungalow, which
is also perfectly positioned for climbing expeditions to the
famed Adam's Peak, just 45 minutes away.
Accommodation profile:Travelers approaching
Castlereagh from the road can glimpse tantalising views across
the lake. Nestled in a wooded dell close to the water, this
century-old bungalow offers unrivalled water views and superb
garden suites. Elegant parquet floors with open fireplaces in
the dining and drawing rooms evoke recollections of a bygone
colonial era. Castlereagh is a private bungalow: delicious meals
will be served up by a butler in your room, in the dining room,
or on the terrace overlooking the pool. The extensive gardens
include summer-houses where you can sample the finest Ceylon
tea.
Day 10 & 11:
Once again, you are heading south, this time to Sinharaja, Sri
Lanka’s Heart of Darkness. Moist and muggy, murky and
mysterious – an experience of Sinharaja is like nothing
else in Sri Lanka.
Trekking through this magnificent tropical jungle – the
last surviving stretch of virgin rainforest on the island –
you should be ready to pour with sweat as they make their way
through a bewildering land of exotic colours and wonderful sounds.
From top to bottom the forest is teeming with life whether it
be gushing waterfalls, gurgling streams, ants marching, leaves
rustling, leeches waiting (you’ve been warned!), crickets
creaking or butterflies fluttering by. |
Apart from the very distinct
atmosphere, which is created by this great cacophony of noise
and movement, Sinharaja is particularly renowned as a hotspot
for bird life. There are 140 bird species seen here during
a calendar year including 34 out of 36 species endemic to
Sri Lanka.
And should your tracker manage to find you one of the ‘mixed
hunting flocks’ all you will need to do is stand and
savour. Roads around the area are not renowned for their quality
and although it requires a certain amount of dedication to
get yourself there, this is partly what protects the place
and makes for a relatively exclusive experience.
Accommodation profile: Rainforest
Edge is blessed by one of the most restful panoramas in Sri
Lanka – and harmony with nature is the essence of its
appeal. This is an isolated, pollution-free environment without
discomforts. From this appealing new property, a triumph of
designer-rustic, you can gaze upon rolling tea plantations,
studded with occasional tea bungalows and factories, some
now disused, some still in operation. Service standards –
initially at least -- might not always possess the impeccable
professionalism found in more accessible parts of Sri Lanka,
but you have the chance to enjoy the hospitality of Sinharajah
villagers in a beautiful natural setting.
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Day 12 & 13:
At last, a change of direction. Your driver, who is now your
friend, will take you east to a town called Galge, which is
located on the outskirts of Yala National Park. Here you will
be staying at Galapita Eco Retreat, a particularly charming
eco-lodge whose atmosphere is completely attuned to Mother Nature’s
rhythms.
Activities available include nature trails (with the possibility
of encountering an elephant on foot), cycling, river bathing,
tyre tubing (sailing downstream wedged in a tyre) plus a host
of nearby cultural sites, including Kataragama, a sacred pilgrimage
site where all religions are worshipped. Galapita staff will
provide information on exact timings of the special Poojas,
fire walking rituals and festivals that takes place at this
holy site.
Accommodation profile: Near the pilgrimage
site of Kataragama, close to Yala Game Park in Sri Lanka's southeast
lies Galapita Eco Retreat, on the banks of the Gem River. What
began as an idealistic rural retreat for friends and family
is now the ultimate escapist retreat for a small selection of
independent travellers. Life can hardly be more natural than
this. Across Galapita bridge, your world may change. Your bedroom
on stilts will be one of four huts perched on the rocks by the
river.
It will have a straw roof, bamboo walls, a futon bed, mosquito
nets and a little driftwood furniture, nothing much else. It
might be the Tree House that peers over paddy fields. Families,
too, will love Galapita because the surrounding countryside
will keep children enthralled for hours. Galapita only offers
vegetarian food but the rice and curries are mouth-wateringly
good.
Day 14 & 15:
After a farewell breakfast platter of fresh fruit, you will
make the short journey south (only an hour or so) to the gates
of Ruhunu National Park (Block 1 of Yala National Park.) For
quite some time, Yala National Park has been Sri Lanka’s
most popular wildlife attraction. Apart from the rare exceptions
that can be found elsewhere – such as the plethora of
birds and butterflies at Sinharaja, the breath-taking views
at Horton Plains or the extraordinary landscapes of Wilpattu
(all of which you will, by now, have seen, enjoyed and understood)
– Yala contains large quantities of just about everything
and therefore probably offers the broadest cross-section of
the country’s flora and fauna.
In terms of game-viewing this is probably the best place to
see all of the ‘big three’ (elephant, leopard &
water buffalo) as well as countless other mammals, birds and
reptiles (spotted deer, wild boar, monkeys, eagles, kingfishers,
crocodiles, lizards, sea turtles - to name just a few). Animals
are quite habituated here so where the animals in Wilpattu might
have proved shy and elusive, Yala might just be the place that
gives you that unforgettable leopard sighting. One again, Kulu
Safaris will look after your accommodation.
Day 16 & 17: Leaving Yala you will head
west along the south coast of Sri Lanka to Tangalle. Along the
way you have the option of calling in at Bundala. This bird
sanctuary consists of five lagoons, which not only accommodate
every species of water bird resident in the country but also
lend the park a charming tranquillity. In addition to an extraordinary
variety of resident and seasonal avifauna, the park houses a
number of other noteworthy animals such as the sea turtle, elephant,
water buffalo and spotted deer. If you’re a keen twitcher,
Bundala is well worth a visit. If Yala has sated your appetite
for wildlife for the time being, you might find the beaches
of Tangalle a more alluring option.
Accommodation profile: Lansiya
is situated a few kilometres west of Tangalle, on the side of
a hill, which runs down to the sandy beaches of Seenimodera
(Sugar Bay). Spread out over a fairly flat 3-acre plot of land,
which looks down through the trees to the Seenimodera coastline,
Lansiya is a spacious property, which offers a pleasant mixture
of social areas and private space. On one side, there is the
master bedroom, which is well equipped and has a good view of
sea. At the back, there are two twin rooms, which look onto
an expansive stretch of lawn, which leads down to the pool and
the sea beyond. Beside the pool, there is an open-plan terrace
area, which is thatch-roofed, containing a small bar as well
as tables, chairs, sofas suitable for all times of the day.
Day 18 & 19: Say good-bye to Lansiya
and continue west towards the Galle Coast. The drive should
take approximately two hours. A few kilometres inland from the
historic city of Galle, near a small town called Akuressa, is
your next destination, Illuketia, an exotic garden paradise
if ever there was one. We recommend that you take a day trip
to historical Galle Fort, an exhilarating place just to stroll
around.
Accommodation profile: Set in
a secluded haven of colourful flowerbeds, undulating lawns,
mazy paths and tranquil waterways, with plantations - tea, pepper,
rubber and cinnamon - all around, Illuketia is a botanical wonderland.
The main building, which sits on a small hill at the back, is
an elegant villa built with a Balinese wooden roof and antique
temple doors.
Throughout the property the effect is exquisite: a host of floral
arrangements, pillared verandas, comfy sofas, wicker chairs
and ornate wall hangings. The food, which is mainly Sri Lankan
and Asian and compiled using fresh fish, herbs, fruit and vegetables
all taken from their very own organic garden, is painstakingly
presented and sensitively served. Elsewhere there is a majestic
infinity swimming pool. Bicycles are available for exploring
the surrounding area and in-house massages and yoga lessons
can be organised on request.
Day 20 & 21: Journey north from Akuressa,
perhaps going via the Galle Fort for lunch (if you haven’t
been there already or want to go again), and then up the west
coast to bustling town of Bentota. Taru Villas is the perfect
place to stay before leaving Sri Lanka.
Accommodation profile: Conceived
by Taru, one of Sri Lanka’s foremost fashion designers,
as a source of inspiration and a means of escape from the stress
and tensions of contemporary living, Taru Villas is one of the
jewels in the crown of Sri Lanka’s south-western coastline.
Cool cement floors, a garden full of frangipani blossoms, a
turquoise pool, individually designed antique-furnished rooms,
king size beds and an uncrowded beach just a few steps out of
the garden, across the still-rural railway line, all combine
to make Taru Villas a very special hideaway.
Day 12: The last leg homeward. Driving
directly to the Airport at Negombo should take 2 to 3 hours.
Depending on the time of your flight you may have time to call
in to Colombo – for food, gifts or just a look see. But
after all the tranquillity that has been instilled by the natural
beauty of Sri Lanka on your trip, you might be well advised
to give it a miss. |