Sights
Bangalore
Bangalore, also known as Bengaluru, is the fastest growing metropolis in India and is one of the major communication links in Southern India. Known for its economic wealth, ‘Asia’s silicon valley’ is a truly global city with famous brands appearing on every street corner. Bangalore might not offer the splendour and beauty of India’s most famous tourist sites, but it has extensive shopping arcades, and boutiques offering famous Western brands at a much lower price. The best places to shop are MG Road and Brigade Road although Forum, a new shopping mall on Hosur Road in the upmarket suburb of Koramangla, is fast becoming the shopping hub of Bangalore. In terms of accommodation Bangalore offers a wide variety of hotels at a variety of budgets, and due to such high competition there is a very high standard for all budgets.
Mysore
Mysore, just two and half hours from Bangalore offers magnificent palaces, a rich art culture, stunning botanical gardens and a feeling of true Indian city charm that Bangalore lacks. The main attraction of the city is Mysore Palace which was constructed in 1912 to house the Maharaja of the Kingdom of Mysore, once the capital of Karnataka. Now it is open for tours daily and offers a splendid performance on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays in the evenings when the lights of the Palace are turned on. As many as 97,000 lights illuminate the palace against the ink black sky making it the most enduring image of the city.
Brindavan Gardens just outside the city is a spectacular evening trip, with some of the best gardens in South India spreading over 150 acres. Every evening a show is put on known as ‘Dancing Fountains’ where the fountains are lit up in an array of spectacular colour. In the very centre of the city is Devaraja market, a charming yet extensive market place contained within century old heritage walls in a unique Indo-Muslim architecture. You can spend hours walking through the passages feasting your eyes on the stunning colours and counters of row upon row of fruit, veg and all kinds of spices. Wafting through the air is the scent of fresh flowers, sandalwood and perfume from incense stalls: a market place with all the charms of India. Mysore is very well known for its silks, so do not pass up the opportunity to peruse through the countless silk stores or visit the Mysore Silk Factory to see saris being made first hand.
Chamundi Hills offers views across the city of Mysore with sites such as Lalitha Mahal Palace, Mysore Palace, the racecourse and the lakes, either accessible by car or by the one thousand steps. On top of the hill one can visit the Chamundeshwari Temple, where pilgrims from around the area gather. The Dasara festival celebrated around India, in particular Karnataka, concludes in Mysore with a procession through the streets when the god Chamundeshwari rides atop an elephant on a golden throne.
Gokarna
Gokarna itself is a charming ancient temple town of narrow streets and interesting boutiques and is a landscape well worth exploring. Set behind broad white-sands in the forest covered foothills of the Western Ghats, this special place has been a Shaivite centre for more than two millennia. It has a reputation as a something of a hippy hang out but is simply a quiet, tranquil stretch of sand full of coconut and palm trees dotted with beach shacks and inexpensive accommodation. Gokarna's beaches offer a contrast to that of popular Goa, for those wanting a quieter more relaxing experience.
Coorg
The Coorg district is situated at the southern end of the Western Ghats. Its rugged thickly forested hill landscape, exceeding 5,000 feet in altitude, is reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands to British colonialists. This legacy left behind was a region rich in resources from the wealth of spices, to paddy fields in the valleys and most importantly the coffee plantations which produce over half of Karnataka’s coffee. Trekking and nature walks in these beautiful hills allows one to indulge in a natural beauty, plucking fresh passion fruit from overhead branches and seeing the wildlife all around you. You can also visit the Dubare elephant camp, to ride and wash elephants although for those seeking the game reserve experience, see Nagarhole. The Nyingmapa Tibetan Monastery and Golden Temple is an enchanting insight into Tibetan life in exile, a refugee town where one can see teachings and daily debates in the evening.
Nagarhole
The Nagarhole Park is perhaps the biggest attraction of the Coorg region. Once the hunting grounds for the Maharaja of Mysore, Nagarhole has been a National Park since 1955. The Park boasts a very healthy Tiger predator ratio, meaning although still rare, you have a better chance of seeing a Tiger here than any of the surrounding areas. It is home to Tigers, Leopards, Asiatic Elephants, Wild Dogs, Sloth Bears and a wealth of other wildlife. Accompanied by the resort’s nature expert, you can take daily excursions deep into the park and experience a real-life Indian nature documentary of your own.
Badami
Towards the north of Karnataka, Badami is a typical simple Indian town in the Deccan Plateau that is not accustomed to the glare of international tourism. Walking the streets here gives you an insight into raw Indian town living. Built on a red sandstone ridge, this town is blessed with some of the most beautiful Dravidian architecture, and is known for its four cave temples, all hewn out of sand stone on the precipice of a hill. Inside the caves are carvings of Shiva, Vishnu, Jain gods and many more with intricately sculpted pillars supporting vast halls: an ancient masterpiece of Chalukyan architecture. From the top of Badami fort, take in the beautiful views over the town, the red sandstone ridge and the Badami tank, a site of Hindu pilgrimages.
Bijapur
The most northern city in Karnataka, Bijapur is rich in Islamic culture and architecture, owing much of its greatness to the Adil Shahi dynasty ending in 1686. When you arrive in the city, the Gol Gumbaz mausoleum dominates the landscape. This gigantic monument has the second largest dome unsupported by pillars after St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The dome consists of a sensitive echo chamber with a whispering gallery encircling the inside of the dome. Voices are said to echo 11 times inside the chamber, although it is the sheer size of the mausoleum that encapsulates one on entry. Elsewhere in the city there are some beautiful mosques and tombs to see such as the Ibrahim Rauza, Jama Masjid and the Gagan Mahal, all very much worth a visit.
Hampi & Hospet
Hampi, known today as the medieval capital of the Hindu empire, Vijayanagara, is a UNESCO world heritage site. The charm of Hampi is irresistible and captures you on arrival simply because of its incredible landscape, an empire built amongst giant boulder-strewn hills. With over 500 monuments, the ruins of Hampi tells a story of grandeur and wealth from the beautiful temples, palaces and market streets to royal pavilions, elephant stables and royal baths; all decorated in magnificent architecture and intricate carvings. To see Hampi in all its pomp, the Hampi festival begins on the 3rd November when the great empire is celebrated, an annual festival dating back thousands of years. Besides the monuments, the town has many colourful stalls and interesting alleyways for shopping, and places to relax for lunch or a fruit shake. For those seeking a little more action, you can walk up the river to a group of secluded romantic rock pools to relax and cool down in the fresh water. Alternatively one can cross the river on a boat or coracle and swim in the large lakes one kilometre from the river.
Helebid: The ancient capital of the Hoysala, Helebid houses the ornate Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples. Located 30 kms from Hassan Helebid is an ideal stop off point en route to Mysore or Bangalore. The Hoysaleswara Temple is a masterpiece dating back to the 12th century CE, studded with a profusion of carvings. Thousands of figures appear on its walls alongside horseman and elephant charges carved out of stone, scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata empires.
Sravanabelagola – Gomateshwara: In between Hassan (50km) and Bangalore (150km), moving on from Helebid is the colossal monolithic statue of Gomateshwara. To see the statue one has to climb 500 steps up a hill to a height of 3000 ft above sea level where it stands proud at a height of 55 ft carved out of a single block of granite. The statue of Lord Bahubali, the Jain saint stands completely nude, in Jain custom and has recently been voted the first of the ‘Seven wonders of India’. Every 12 years a festival is held (Mahamastakabhishekam) when the statue is covered in milk, curd, ghee, saffron and gold coins.
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Accommodation
Jayamahal Palace, Bangalore: The traditional colonial architecture upon entrance gives a real regal luxury to this heritage palace, set in a tidy 19 acre garden. Jayamahal has charm and endeavours to capture the glory of The Raj. The palace offers contemporary luxuries in a subtle, traditional manner.
Lalitha Mahal Palace, Mysor: Lalitha Mahal Palace, shimmering white, is a splendid Italianate palazzo, double-columned and domed, set in sprawling terraced and landscaped gardens. It was built by the Maharaja of Mysore in 1921 to host his most important guest, the Viceroy of India. The ambience is still regal, with polished marble floors, painted and chandeliered ceilings, priceless carpets and antique furniture with a magnificent sweeping marble staircase in the entrance hall up to the stately upper floors. It is difficult not to be entranced by this magnificent building, for it offers guests a very different experience of grandeur and a look back at Britain’s colonial footprint on India.
SwaSwara, Gokarna: Follow a winding coastal road that runs high over the rocky headland, and tucked 6kms away from Gokarna Town is the SwaSwara ‘wellness centre’, established just off Om Beach. The beach assumes this name because of its natural shape being similar to that of the Sanskrit symbol the ‘Om’ – meaning ‘God’.
Heritage Resort, Coorg: Heritage Resort is a calm, quiet hill-country property benefiting from the magnificent views across the rolling hills of the Western Ghats. Set amidst verdant valleys, imposing mountains and teak wood forests, this is one of the most beautiful hill stations you can visit. This self contained resort prides itself on its isolation from other holiday goers, traffic and noise that one becomes familiar with in the everyday hustle and bustle of Indian life; in fact neither lights nor noises can be seen or heard besides the fireflies and the abundance of jungle activity.
Orange County, Kabini: Part of a popular chain established in South India, this 5-star luxury resort of sweeping panoramic vistas bordered on two sides by the Kabini River, is located very close to the Nagarhole and Bandipur forests which support the highest density of herbivores in Asia. The settlements of the Kadu Kuruba, a gentle tribal people who have lived in harmony with this land, which traditionally collect honey, weaving baskets and sieves, provide inspiration behind the design and theme of this resort.
Hotel Badami Court, Badami: Overlooking the beautiful Sandstone Mountains, Badami Court is a moderate hotel with basic amenities, though not short on charm. Options for travelling visitors are scarce in these sparse lands of Northern Karnataka, but the less-known cave temples in and around the region are spectacular. The hotel provides all you need for an over-night stop-off.
Hotel Shashinag, Bijapur: Hotel Shashinag is the best hotel in and around the city and will provide you comfortable beds, spacious rooms and a good restaurant with outdoor seating in the garden and a view across the city and looming mausoleum, the Gol Gumbaz.
Boulders Resort, Hampi: Amidst bamboo trees, coconut groves, and the namesake rolling rocks, discover the remote and beautifully simple Hampi’s Boulders Resort. Emus parade through the grounds, and spiralling steps take you into naturally set bouldered villas. Look over the Tungabhadra River which winds through one of Karnataka’s most striking landscapes.
Hoysala Village, Hassan: Built in a Keralan village style, the property has been landscaped in a quiet homely countryside style with paths adorned with flowering plants and overhanging trees. The rooms are surrounded by vegetation and greenery, blending the buildings in with nature.
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