Getting There

The south-west state of Kerala covers about 580 kms of coastline and spreads about 130 kms inland at its broadest point. The backwaters of Kerala reaches a massive 900 kms made up of a network of lagoons, lakes, canals, estuaries and upto 41 rivers. The most expansive stretch of Kerala’s backwaters is the Vembanad Lake which extends 75 kms from Kollam in the South to Kochi in the North and flows out to the Arabian Sea at Kochi Port. The most scenic stretch to explore in a houseboat is from Kollam to Alleppey and can be covered at your own pace with an overnight stay or even two to three nights aboard a houseboat. The drive to Kollam from Cochin airport is 85km and takes approximately two hours. From the airport at Trivandrum the journey is about 4.5 hours. There are no direct flights from UK to Kerala, but there are connection services from Colombo or major Indian hubs.

Sights

A boat journey on Kerala’s peaceful backwaters is one of India’s most delightful experiences, offering a chance to immerse yourself in enchanting water-dominated landscapes and rural village life. Kerala’s houseboats have now become a popular accommodation option to the hotels and resorts in the area. The most scenic stretch to explore in a houseboat is from Kollam to Alleppey and takes about eight hours. Views constantly change and the only sound, unless your boat has a motor, is often the chatter of birdsong. This region is known as the `rice bowl of Kerala’ and is one of the few places in the world where farming is done below sea level. Explore rural villages, paddy fields, village bazaars and ancient temples. Alleppey, referred to as the ‘Venice of the East’, is surrounded by a large network of inter-connecting canals and has now become another major centre for backwater tours. It has a rich history, having been an important trading port for centuries and is famous for its coir industry, manufacturing of boats, and the traditional snake boat races which takes place annually in August and September. Kumarakom is an island on the massive Vembanad Lake that is blessed with an idyllic waterfront location. The area has attracted several exotic hotels offering backwater and Ayurveda holidays. Explore the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary home to numerous species of migratory and endemic bird species.

Accommodation

Kerala’s Houseboats: Houseboats have now become a popular accommodation option to the hotels and resorts in the Backwaters. These refurbished Kettu vallams, traditional rice or spice barges that used to transport the harvest from Kuttanad to Kochi, were constructed by artisans using jackwood planks, coir rope and bamboo and have coir and palm leaf canopies. These have been transformed into houseboats maintaining its traditional exteriors and blended with modern comforts. Houseboats offer a range of facilities to suite everyone’s budget. Houseboats vary in size and can have from one to three bedrooms with or without a/c. All bedrooms have an ensuite bathroom with h/w shower powered by a solar panel.

Alleppey: Recommended resorts and hotels in Alleppey include Lake Palace, an extensive property on a 50-acre tropical island on the tranquil Vembanad Lake. Situated close to the starting point of the Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Races, it is set amidst tranquil surroundings and is accessed by boat from Alleppey. Punnamada Serena Spa Resort, perched at the edge of the tranquil Vembanad Lake, is luxurious and peaceful. It successfully mixes traditional Kerala architecture and heritage with modern comforts. Luxurious individual villas with private verandahs overlook the serene lake or lush green gardens. The Resort’s own exclusive houseboat, `Punnamada Royal’, is a romantic experience. Raheem Residency is an exquisite ten-bedroomed boutique hotel which was originally built in 1868. Tastefully renovated, maintaining its original Mughal / Colonial style architecture, this award-winning hotel is situated just across the road from the relatively underdeveloped Alleppey beach. Situated in the fishing village of Mararikulam nearby Alleppey is the wonderful eco-resort of Marari Beach. Sleep in palm thatched cottages modelled after the homes of the fisherman of Mararikulum, relax on the white sandy beaches, immerse yourself in the ancient healing wisdom of Ayurveda or create a balance of mind and body with Yoga. Marari Beach is a CGH Earth property.

Kumarakom: The area has attracted several mid-range to five-star hotels overlooking the backwaters and the magnificent Vembanad Lake. Most hotels have good Ayurveda facilities. Coconut Lagoon is a boutique hotel with strong heritage and ecological commitment. Coconut Lagoon’s waterways, lush green paddy fields, heritage cottages and staff walking about purposefully in their white dothis (sarongs) and saris have the air of a backwater village. Kumarakom Lake Resort, arguably the most luxurious backwater resort in Kumarakom, is beautifully designed with an abundance of water. A 250m swimming pool snakes around heritage style cottages and numerous waterways edge the landscaped gardens down to the vast lake. The mid-range Backwater Ripples offers individual cottages recreated with original timber doors and wood panelling from old Kerala homesteads and is a welcoming holiday retreat that maintains the feel of traditional Kerala. For those preferring villa type accommodation, there is the fabulous Privacy – a Malabar Escapes property with just two exquisite villas, the interiors a mix of contemporary and traditional South Indian art and culture. Philipkutty Farm is an interesting Home Stay where the Philipkutty family will welcome you into their beautiful lakeside cottages, prepare home-cooked meals and share their traditional way of life. Waterscapes, a Kerala Tourism Development Corporation eco-resort, is a budget property ideal for nature lovers, situated on the banks of the Vembanad Lake and adjoining the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary.

Kerala’s Houseboats: Houseboats have now become a popular accommodation option to the hotels and resorts in the Backwaters. These refurbished Kettuvallams - traditional rice or spice barges that used to transport the harvest from Kuttanad to Kochi, were constructed by artisans using jackwood planks, coir rope and bamboo and have coir and palm leaf canopies. These have been transformed into houseboats maintaining its traditional exteriors and blended with modern comforts. Houseboats offer a range of facilities to suite everyone’s budget. [More]

Kayaloram Heritage Lake Resort, Alleppey:  Situated on the banks of the vast Vembanad Lake, Kayaloram -- meaning `Lake Front’ -- is a charming 12-room resort set in an utterly tranquil setting. Heritage-style cottages combined with Ayurvedic wellness makes this an ideal retreat for those seeking a peaceful and restful holiday. [More]


Punnamada Serena Spa Resort, Allepppey:  Perched at the edge of the tranquil Vembanad Lake, is a luxurious and peaceful holiday getaway that is ideal for total mind and body relaxation. Punnamada successfully mixes traditional Kerala architecture and heritage with modern comforts. Luxurious individual villas with private verandahs overlooking the serene lake or lush green gardens provide for comfortable accommodation. [More]

Raheem Residency, Alleppey:   An exquisite ten-bedroomed boutique hotel which was originally built in 1868. Tastefully renovated maintaining its original Mughal / Colonial style architecture, the Raheem Residency is situated just across the road from the relatively underdeveloped Alleppey beach and the turquoise waters of the Arabian Sea. [More]


Marari Beach, Mararikulum:  One of several `CGH Earth’ properties across Kerala, at Marari Beach you experience the essence of Kerala and achieve complete relaxation of the mind and body. Mararikulum lies mid-way up the Malabar Coast and is conveniently located to the main backwater towns of Kumarakom and Alleppy. [More]


Backwater Ripples, Kumarakom:  Situated on a seven acre coconut grove overlooking the vast Vembanad Lake, Backwater Ripples is a mid-range property with a homely feel. Comfortable accommodation along the lines of old Kerala homesteads are scattered amidst a tranquil setting. [More]




Coconut Lagoon, Kumarakom:  An architectural triumph, a boutique hotel cleverly crafted from the fragments of ancient village homes and palaces. The result is the ultimate backwater resort, where fine traditional craftsmanship exists in stunning natural surroundings. [More]



Kumarakom Lake Resort, Kumarakom:  Arguably the most luxurious backwater resort in Kumarakom, this is a beautifully designed heritage property created by architect Tony Joseph who wan an Arc Asia award for it in 2003. A unique feature here is the presence of water all around. [More]




Philipkutty’s Farm, Kumarakom:  Located on an island in the backwaters of the Vembanad Lake, Phillipkutty’s Farm is a unique homestay experience that provides a true essence of Kerala’s backwaters. The Philipkutty family will welcome you into their beautiful lake side cottages, prepare home cooked meals and share their traditional way of life. [More]


Privacy, Kumarakom: One of four unique and stylish boutique properties belonging to Malabar Escapes – a Green Globe certified small chain of boutique hotels in Kerala, Privacy has just two bungalows – the waterfront bungalow situated at the edge of the Vembanad; and the Heritage bungalow set amidst a one acre coconut grove and lush tropical gardens. [More]


Taj Garden Retreat, Kumarakom:  Formerly called 'Baker's Bungalow', after George Baker acquired this land and built his home here 124 years ago, this property was also referred to as the 'The History House' in Arundhati Roy's novel, The God of Small Things. The Taj Garden Retreat sits on acres of landscaped gardens adjoining the Kumarakom Bird sanctuary and overlooking the vast Vembanad Lake. [More]

Waterscapes, Kumarakom:  A  Kerala Tourism Development Corporation (KTDC) eco-resort, Waterscapes sits on the fertile banks of the beautiful Vembanad Lake adjoining the Kumarakom bird sanctuary. Individual thatched roofed cottages on stilts are scattered over seven acres of lush tropical foliage that attracts numerous species of birds and butterflies. [More]


Estuary Island, Poovar:  Situated on an idyllic location surrounded by the backwaters and the Arabian Sea, Estuary Island is a mid-ranged 71 roomed resort with spectacular views, extensive gardens strewn with coconut trees, up-to-date facilities and a holistic wellness centre offering Ayurveda and Yoga. [More]



Poovar Island Resort, Poovar:  Jointly managed by local owners and Aitken Spence Hotels of Sri Lanka, this is a mid-ranged eco-friendly island resort set amidst lush tropical gardens and waterways. Guests can choose to stay in the floating cottages on the Poovar River or inland in individual cottages amidst landscaped gardens. [More]

Food & Drink

Kerala boasts the richest and most varied forms of cuisine in India. Over the centuries, the region’s many Hindu castes, religious minorities, traders and colonial powers have added their own twist to the rice and curry dishes using the abundantly available aromatic spices including pepper, cumin, cinnamon, cloves and curry leaves. Healthy vegetarian Ayurveda cuisine and non-veg dishes are on offer. Most chefs in leading hotels such as Coconut Lagoon, Travancore Heritage and Marari Beach conduct daily cookery demonstrations. With an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables, an array of juices and leafy cunji is available at any time of day. The larger hotels serve a range of alcoholic beverages with the smaller hotels serving only Indian wines which are fast gaining popularity within the region.

Events

Nehru Trophy Snakeboat Race, Allelppey: On the second Saturday of August every year, Alleppey hosts one of the most anticipated events on the calendar – the Nehru Trophy Snakeboat races of the Backwaters. Magnificent chundum vallam (longboats) compete for the prized trophy instituted by Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India. Each boat, with raised rears designed to resemble the hood of a cobra, is propelled by over 100 oarsmen who row to the rhythm of the Vanchipattu (Song of the Boatman) sung by the 25 singers on board. With a number of prize categories and 16 boats competing for each, the enormity of the spectacle is bewildering. And with the colourful pre-race pageant in the morning and thousands of spectators dressed to impress, it is a day of both glamour and glory.

Aranmula Vallomkali, Pathanamthitta: Towards the end of Onam Festival in September, the village of Aranmula, situated 30km south of Kottayam, hosts its own Snakeboat Regatta. Crowds gather on the banks of the Pampa River to admire a remarkable procession of elaborately decorated longboats. Unlike the fiercely competitive race at Alappuzha, the mood of this occasion is light-hearted, but it remains a glorious occasion.

Shri Purnatrayisa Temple Festival, Ernakulam: Situated 12km south of Ernakulam, in the town of Thripunitra, the Shri Purnatrayisa temple hosts a seven-day festival in October/November which features various forms of theatre, music and dance, including all-night performances of Kathakali, the bizarre but beautiful ‘story-plays’ that incorporate all three. Inside the lamplit grounds of the temple, massive percussion orchestras playing chenda melam accompany a majestic procession of elephants, decorated with golden regalia. This is a good opportunity to catch a Kathakali concert Although the temple is usually closed to non-Hindus, permission is granted to appropriately dressed visitors (men must wear a lungi and remove their shirt, while women should wear a sari).

Activities

Architecture

Therawads: Kerala’s heritage architecture can be seen in some hotels where old `Therawads’ (old feudal homes of Malabar) made of timber dating back to over a century, have been caringly transplanted with original rose or teakwood panelling, doors adorned with brass, ornate timber ceilings and intricate carved details, all still intact. No two Therawads are the same. Most of these old homes have been abandoned in the villages due to high maintenance costs. You can now experience living in a heritage home in hotels such as Coconut Lagoon, Privacy and Travancore Heritage in Kovalam.

Performing Arts

Kathakali dance: A live performance of Kathakali is an eye-opening experience for any newcomer to Kerala. Combining facets of ballet, opera, masque and pantomime, this is a highly-technical skill and performers will have undertaken years of rigorous training. Go early and catch the intriguing ritual of the Kathakali dancers putting on their make up before their performance which can take upto an hour.

Kalaripayattu: Kalaripayattu is a unique and magnificent art of physical culture and self-defense that is believed to have originated in the Vedic period, which is about 5,000 years old. It is an ancient Indian system medicine, physical culture and self-defense. It is believed that ancient Indian scholars have contributed 6 sciences, 4 Verdas, and 64 arts to man kind. The art of fighting is an important component amongst these 64 art forms. Kalaripayattu id the only form of ancient marital arts still in existence.

Culture & Heritage

Mata Amritanandamayi Mission: Situated 10km from Kollam, this is the ashram of a renowned female guru, Mother Amirithanandamayi, who has gained notoriety as the “hugging mother” because of her insistence on hugging all visitors during the daily darshan sessions.

Mannarasala This ‘serpent temple’ is located 32km before Alapuzzha. It is a Nagaraja Temple in the forest that is decorated with 30,000 images of snake gods.

Haripad: One of the most important Subrahmanya temple, the building of which after the rescue of its four-armed idol is celebrated in the annual Snake Boat Race at Payipad.

Sports & Adventure

Backwater cruises: Meandering along Kerala’s Backwaters in a traditional Kettu vallam - a rice barge that has been converted into a houseboat -- is one of the most memorable experiences any traveller could have in India. Kerala’s houseboats have now become a popular accommodation option to the hotels and resorts in the area. The most scenic stretch to explore in a houseboat is from Kollam (Quilon) to Alappuzha (Alleppey) and can be covered at your own pace within a day’s cruise or an overnight stay aboard the houseboat.

Boating on Ashtamudi Lake: Pedal and rowing boats can be hired at your hotel, the Kollam Boat Club or from the DTPC Guesthouse Compound.

Spa & Ayurveda

Kerala is considered the home of Ayurvedic herbal medicine, a holistic and sacred ancient science of life, healing and rejuvenation. Although Ayurveda, which dates back to the sixth century, is also popular in Sri Lanka, nowhere in the world has contributed more to its dramatic revival in the past few decades than Kerala. Almost every hotel in the state now offers some form of relaxing and curative Ayurveda treatments. Certification by the government is provided to hotels for their Ayurveda programmes based on facilities offered and staff training. There are two Categories - `Olive Leaf’ and the `Green Leaf’ with the latter being the highest in standards.

Yoga & Meditation

An intrinsic part of everyday religious life on the sub-continent for more than 2,000 years, India’s highly-refined techniques of yoga and meditation might reasonably claim to be its most influential export. Based on the idea of raising awareness of the self through spiritual, mental and physical discipline, yoga is taught virtually everywhere in the South, and Kerala is no exception. Most hotels with Ayurveda programmes also conduct daily Yoga sessions.

Wildlife & Nature

Backwaters of Kerala: Explore the fascinating backwaters of Kerala which has a unique bio-diversity. A magnificent network of lagoons, lakes, canals, estuaries and upto 41 rivers makes up the 900 km of backwaters. The most expansive stretch of Kerala’s backwaters is the Vembanad Lake which extends 75 kms from Kollam in the South to Kochi in the North and flows out to the Arabian Sea at Kochi Port. Within this area known as Kuttanad, the most scenic stretch of backwaters is from Kollam to Alleppey Kuttanad country is described as the `rice bowl of Kerala’ and is one of the few places in the world where farming is done below sea level. Explore the region with its rural villages, paddy fields, village bazaars, ancient temples and natural landscape home to numerous species of birds, butterflies and animals.

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary: The Vembanad Lake is the most extensive body of water in Kerela's backwaters with six rivers draining into it from the Western Ghats. The silts deposited by these rivers have created several islands of ecological importance, especially in terms of birdlife. Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary, previously known as Baker Estate in honour of the Englishman who first developed it in the early 20C, hosts large populations of Purple Herons, Little Cormorants, Indian Shag and Pond Heron. Best visited between November and March when the sanctuary attracts northern hemisphere on their winter migration.