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Cochin
Cochin, now known as Kochi, enjoys a picturesque setting where Kerala’s backwaters meet the Arabian Sea. Here is the gateway to Kerala.
Photo Credit:
Dhanush De Costa
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Cochin
Snapshot
Cochin, now known as Kochi, enjoys a picturesque setting where Kerala’s tranquil backwaters meet the shimmering waters of the Arabian Sea. Cochin is the gateway to Kerala and was once a port of call on the ancient spice route. For centuries this region, historically known as the Malabar Coast, attracted worldwide traders who came in search of spices, precious gems, gold and silk. Today, Cochin is a colourful mix of world cultures, all of which have left an indelible impression on its landscape, lifestyles, culture, architecture, and cuisine.
Don’t Miss
A sunset cruise into the Backwaters and the Arabian Sea
Vibrant Kathakali dance
Sumptuous Syrian Christian and Keralan cuisine
Mattancherry Palace: once occupied by the Verma Kings and now a museum.
Jewish Town, with its narrow cobbled walkways lined with curio shops and a 16C synagogue
Portuguese and Dutch period churches and palace
Photo Gallery
Getting There
Cochin, the gateway to Kerala, is the state’s major tourist hub and enjoys a picturesque setting between the coast and the backwaters. Peering over the Arabian Ocean, this busy and charming town is built upon narrow spits of land and coconut islands that jut out into a wide bay. Cochin has three main parts: Fort Cochin with placid backstreets and attractive colonial-era architecture; Willingdon Island which was created in the 1920’s by dredging and named after Lord Willingdon, a former British Viceroy of India is now the headquarters of the southern naval command; and modern Eranakulam, the new town in the east which offers shopping and proximity to the airport but little else to the traveller. Most tourists head for the Fort area. There are no direct flights from UK to Cochin, but there are connection services from Colombo or major Indian hubs. Cochin’s International Airport is 42kms away from Fort Cochin and the drive takes up 90 minutes during traffic hours.
Historical Background
The areas of Malabar, Cochin and Northern Travancore – referred to as the land of the Cheras -- came to prominence as a result of trade with the East. Ships from ancient Sumeria and Rome, China, Arabia, Persia, East Africa all were attracted to the shores of the Malabar Coast in search of aromatic spices, precious gems, gold and silk. The Europeans, led by the Portuguese general Vasco da Gama, arrived in India in 1498, followed by the Dutch and the British. All brought with them new ideas, lifestyles, religions and cuisine which remain a part of Cochin’s intriguing heritage.
Sights
Fort Cochin is an intriguing mix of cultures, lifestyles and colonial era architecture. Visit opulent palaces built by the Dutch, Portuguese and local rulers, a 16C synagogue that displays Old Testament scrolls, St. Francis Church (India’s first European church where Vasco da Gama was originally buried), spice and fishing markets and wander through the Fort’s old lanes, which are full of interesting architecture and buzzing with life. Cochin is also an excellent place to watch a traditional Kathakali dance, with tourist-orientated shows throughout the year.
Accommodation
Fort Cochin has several mid-range to boutique hotels situated in the heart of the Fort. Red Dot recommends the Brunton Boatyard situated at the edge of an estuary where the vast Vembanad Lake meets the Arabian Sea. Housed within a caringly-resurrected 19C Victorian shipyard, this luxurious boutique hotel provides an experience of a bygone era. Malabar House is another magnificent boutique hotel within a refurbished 18C Dutch mansion. The Taj Malabar located on Willingdon Island in Cochin, mixes old-world charm with contemporary design.
Brunton Boatyard:
Housed on the site of a 19th century Victorian shipyard belonging to George Brunton & Sons, the Brunton Boatyard hotel was created maintaining its colonial architecture. This is a boutique hotel blending old world charm with modern luxuries. Situated at the edge of an estuary where the vast Vembanad Lake meets the Arabian Sea Brunton Boatyard tells of a fascinating bygone Colonial era in the history of the Malabar Coast.
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Malabar House:
A property of Malabar Escapes which owns several exquisite boutique hotels and villas in Kerala, Malabar House has understandably become one of the most sought-after properties in Fort Cochin. Formerly a Dutch colonial mansion dating back to 1755, it has been lovingly restored, maintaining its original architecture with interiors that showcases the best of contemporary and traditional South Indian art and culture.
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Old Harbour Hotel:
Old Harbour is a refurbished boutique hotel steeped in history, located within Cochin Fort. Once the favourite abode of sea-fearers this 300-year-old heritage property is a peaceful retreat within the heart of Fort Cochin. Today’s Old Harbour Hotel is a unique blend of colonial design, stylish interiors with modern comforts and ethnic Indian ambience.
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Taj Malabar:
A luxurious five-star hotel with panoramic views of the Arabian Sea and the backwaters. Located on Willingdon Island and surrounded by the tranquil waters of the great Vembanad Lake, Taj Malabar offers a peaceful and relaxing holiday setting. The hotel lies at the estuary where the lake meets the Arabian Sea and dolphins are often seen frolicking in the waters nearby.
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Food & Drink
Kerala boasts the richest and most varied forms of cuisine in India. Over the centuries, the region’s many Hindu castes, religious minorities, traders and colonial powers have added their own twist to the rice and curry dishes using abundant aromatic spices. adds their own sumptuous twist and delicacies to the traditional rice and curry meal. Visit the History Café at Brunton Boatyard for a traditional rice and curry meal. Malabar House, a stylish boutique hotel offers traditional as well as fusion dishes.
Shopping
Fort Cochin’s Jewish Town with its narrow cobbled stone walkways and small wayside shops, makes for interesting shopping. Antiques, objects d’art, tapestries, silk shawls, Kurtas and silver jewellry are all found here and can range in price. Cheaper souveniours can be found in the boutiques along Vasco da Gama square.
Events
Kathakali dance:
A live performance of Kathakali is an eye-opening experience for any newcomer to Kerala, and the likeliest place to catch one is in Fort Cochin. Traditional performances take place on the ground outside a temple where elaborately dressed actors with extraordinary make-up play out other-worldly plots on a lamplight stage. Combining facets of ballet, opera, masque and pantomime, this is a highly-technical skill and performers will have undertaken years of rigorous training. Of many venues, we particularly recommend The Kerala Kathakali Centre on River Road, which takes performers from the highly-regarded Kalamandan Academy who give quite a raw but energetic performance, and Dr. Devan’s Kathakali at the See India Foundation, which puts on a slightly more refined version with a pre-performance lecture included.
Activities:
Culture & Heritage
Vasco da Gama Square
:
Stroll along the square bordered by the estuary where the vast Vembanad Lake meets the Arabian Sea. Located here are the huge cantilevered Chinese fishing nets, still in use and originally erected here between 1350 and 1450 AD by Chinese traders from the court of Kublai Khan. The narrow promenade of the Vasco da Gama Square has stalls selling fresh fish.
Mattancherry Palace
, Cochin:
Built by the Portuguese in 1557 and presented to Raja Veera Kerala Varm of Cochin, this palace was renovated by the Dutch in 1663. This two-storey Palace is an interesting amalgam of European architecture. While the exterior is not particularly striking, the interior is quite the opposite, its walls adorned with murals, the quality of which makes them the best-kept secret in India. Along with the 16C friezes illustrating stories from the Ramayana, these are fine examples of the Keralan School of art. Other objects of interest include a collection of Dutch maps of old Cochin, coronation robes of former maharajas of Cochin, weapons of war and period furniture.
St. Francis Church, Cochin:
The church of St Francis, the oldest European church in India, stands on the corner of an English-style village green. Historians have suggested that its stone structure, which became the model for most of the subsequent Indo-Christian churches, is likely to date from the early 16C. Protestant under the Dutch in 1663, then Anglican under British rule in 1795 and finally attached to the church of South India since 1949, it contains artifacts and engravings which document each phase in its turbulent history. South of the church is the late 20C Santa Cruz Cathedral, displaying a number of startling examples of the Indian Romano-Rococo school of decoration.
Santa Crusz Basilica, Cochin:
Built by the Portuguese and later demolished by the British, this church was once again rebuilt at the same site in 1887. The church was proclaimed a Basilica in 1984 by Pope John Paul II.
Jewish Synagogue, Cochin:
This 400-year-old beautiful synagogue, with chandeliers and a brass-railed pulpit, a clock tower, scrolls on stone slabs and ancient scripts on copper plates, is situated nearby the Mattancherry Palace in Fort Cochin. The unique Willow Pattern tiles in this synagogue speak of once thriving trade links with China.
Sports & Adventure:
Lakshadweep Islands:
The Lakshadweep Islands (Laccadives as they were formerly called), are Kerala’s rustic and exclusive alternative to the Maldives, a coral paradise offering undisturbed escapism. Lakshadweep is a one hour flight from Cochin. These are Kerala’s Robinson Crusoe-like string of little-known tropical islands lying 200 or so miles off the Kerala coast. The islands are an amazing spectacle of sparkling coral reefs, turquoise blue lagoons, silvery beaches and lush green coconut palms, all preserved in the state little different from the days of Charam Perumal's reign – a mythical king of Kerala.
Wildlife & Nature
Thattekadu Bird Sanctuary:
This is located just two hour's drive from Cochin, on the northern bank of the Periyar River near Kothamanagalam in Ernakulam district. The reserve was officially formed in 1983 but 50 years earlier Dr. Salim Ali, India’s most famous birder, described Thattekad as the "richest bird habitat in peninsular India". Unfortunately, much of the forest has now been converted to commercial use but the 25 sq km park still boasts 270 species, including the rare Spot-bellied Eagle Owl, Ceylon frog-moth, Rose billed roller, Grey-headed Bulbul, Rusty-tailed Flycatcher, Mottled Wood Owl, and the Malabar grey-hornbill.
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