Sights
Thrissur: Thrissur lies midway between Cochin and Palakkad at a strategic gap in the Southern Ghats that links Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Formerly known as Trichur, it lays claim to being the cultural capital of Kerala. This pleasant town is famous for its annual Pooram festival and is the home to several cultural centres, including the Kerala Kalamandalam that promotes literature and folk dance. The town centres around the hillside Vaddukanatha Temple, the largest temple complex in the state. The Pooram, which is the largest and most extravagant festival in Kerala, takes place in April/May each year and includes scores of elephants, drums and fireworks. Thrissur is also a good place to purchase traditional Keralan handicrafts and bell-metal oil lamps.
Pallakad: Palakkad, a vast expanse of verdant plains interspersed with hills, rivers, mountain streams and forests, is the gateway to Kerala from the north through the Plakkad Gap, a 40 kms break in the mountains. Palakkad, known as the granary of Kerala, is well regarded for its Carnatic musicians and several good Ayurvedic wellness centres including the Kalari Kovilakom. Silent Valley National Park is home to numerous species of birds, butterflies and animals including the rare lion-tailed macaque.
Mallapuram: The rivers of Chaliyar, Kadaluni and the Bharathapuzha rivers flow through Malappuram making it a fertile and scenic area. The ancient military headquarters of the Zamorins of Kozhikode, this area was the site of uprisings between the Moplah community (Arab descendents) and the British. Malapuram is also famous for Hindu Vedic learning and Islamic philosophy and the temples and mosques are well known for their colourful festivals. Try the tasty Moplah cuisine which traces its roots to the culinary traditions of the Arab merchants who visited the Malabar Coast.
Kozhikode (Calicut): This coastal city, nearly 200 kms north of Cochin, was formerly one of Asia’s most prosperous trading capitals inhabited by Jewish, Christian, Arab and Chinese merchants followed by the Portuguese who traded in spices, precious gems, gold and silk. Islam flourished in this region which resulted in a unique blend of cultures, style of architecture and cuisine. Nowadays, Kozhikode is a congested town with its old mosques replaced by newer structures and is a gateway to Indians working in the Gulf States. Kozhikode has a rich tradition in Kalaripayattu, an ancient form of marital arts and wellness which can be experienced at one of the Kalari centres. Walk down Mithai Street to taste Kozhikode’s famous traditional sweets and deserts. Visit the ancient shipyard of Beypore situated 11 kms south of Kozhikode where large Arabian wooden Dhows are still being made by hand using traditional methods.
Wayanad: Wayanad is a beautiful, untouched, rarely-visited region of forest-clad hills in the far north of Kerala, approximately 70 kms from Kozhikode. Off the main tourist circuit, protected by isolation and bad roads, the area is home to various indigenous tribal groups that have been able to maintain their traditional identities. One prime attraction is the Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary, a tropical evergreen forest reserve that has elephant, bear, wild boar and deer. Hikers may like to climb Chembra Peak, which at 2100m offers some stunning views.
Kannur (Cannanmore): Kannur, situated 92 kms north of Kozhikode and on the coastal route to Goa is boarded by the Western Ghats in the east and the Lakshadweep Sea in the west. Kannur is an ancient port which had trade links with the Greeks, Romans, and Arabs who came in search of aromatic spices. This cliff top town is the centre of the Moplah community, a group of Arab descent, and was once the capital of the Kolathiri rajas, who thrived on the spice trade before the arrival of the Portuguese. Although there are some attractive and secluded beaches along the coast between Kannur and Kozhikode, the main reason for visiting this town is to experience the ancient spirit-possession ritual of Teyyattam. Traditional Theyyam performers invoke the temple deity with their frenzied dancing and throbbing temple music in the courtyards of village temples.
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Events
Nercha Festival, Pattambi: In early February, the Nercha festival, held in memory of Aloor Valiya Pookunjikoya Thangal (a Muslim saint of Malabar), is a feast of vivid colours and vibrant music. The entire town of Pattambi, which is situated 60 kms outside Palakkad, is illuminated and decorated, setting the stage for a magnificent parade of over seventy elephants, one of the largest pageants in India. The evening culminates on the banks of the river Bharathapuzha where, with the gathering of colourful floats, musical ensembles strike up, folk-artists take to the stage and fireworks fill the sky.
Thrissur Pooram, Thrissur: The Thrissur Pooram, which is held in the Malayalam month of Medam (April/May), is commonly regarded as one of the defining emblems of cultural Kerala. Introduced during the reign of Sakthan Thampuran towards the end of the 18C, this famous Pooram sees the staging of a contest, which is both athletic and artistic, between the city’s two geographical divisions, Paramekkavu and Thiruvambadi. After two long processions in which the rivals attempt to outshine one another with sophisticated sights and sounds, the event reaches its pinnacle when the two trains meet, like armies on a battlefield, at the entrance to the Vaddukanatha temple. Two lines of fifteen majestically-caparisoned tuskers stand face to face, unfazed by the thundering rhythms of chenda melam. This quintessentially Keralan music, which on this occasion features over a hundred hard-skinned, cylindrical chenda drums, crashing cymbals and woodwind instruments, not only mesmerises the crowd but also provides the structure around which the whole procession progresses. As drummers drum faster to prove their prowess and trumpeters join the cacophony the noise and tempo builds to the climax: the kudamattan. In a dazzling display of strength, agility and timing those astride the elephants perform the synchronised and highly stylistic removal of headdresses. Amidst such scenes of splendour, celebrations continue well into the night until a spectacular fireworks display takes place in the early hours of the morning.
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Activities
Architecture & Design
Cheraman Juma Masjid, Thrissur: Situated south of Thrissur in the town of Kodungallur, this is considered the oldest mosque in India dating back to 630 AD. The mosque was founded by the legendary Kerala king, Cheraman Perumal who converted to Islam. Only ruins of the original building remains. The present building dating back to the 16th century is made mainly of wood and resembles a Hindu temple in appearance.
Palakkad Fort: Built in 1766 by Hyder Alie of Mysore and later modified by the British, this granite fort situated in the heart of Plakkad town is one of the best preserved forts in Kerala.
Kuttichira mosques, Kozhikode: Situated in the Muslim quarter of the town, these mosques reveal the history of Zamorins of Kozhikode and their patronage of Islam in Kerala. The architecture of these old wooden mosques includes multi tiered roofs and typically Keralan carved gable roofs and are similar in style to Hindu temples. Some of the more unique mosques include Macchandipalli Masjid, Juma Masjid, and the Mithqalpalli Masjid.
Beypore, Kozhikode: Situated 10 kms south of Kozhikode at the mouth of the Chaliyar River, Beypore was one of the prominent ports and maritime trading centres of ancient Kerala. The ancient Shipyard here is famous for its 1,500 year old tradition of building Arabian dhows, wooden boats which are handmade using traditional methods.
St. Anjelo Fort, Kannur: This seafront laterite fort was constructed in 1505 AD by the first Portuguese viceroy with the consent of the ruling Kolathriri Raja. St. Angelo Fort offers a wonderful view of Mappila Bay fishing harbour.
Folk Art
Kerala Kalamandalam: Situated in Cheruthuruthy, this is the most-respected and leading school for Kathakali dancing in the state. Other indigenous artforms are also taught in the school that was founded in 1927. It has played a crucial role in the revival of interest in Kerala’s ancient arts. A week-long free arts festival takes place each Christmas.
Kerala Sangeetha Nataka Academy: Situated in Chembukkavu, the centre sees regular expositions of theatre, dance, drama and folk arts. An extensive library has many titles on the art and dance forms of Kerala.
Kathakali dance: A live performance of Kathakali is an eye-opening experience for any newcomer to Kerala, and the likeliest place to catch one is in Thrissur. Traditional performances take place on the ground outside a temple where elaborately dressed actors with extraordinary make-up play out otherworldly plots on a lamplight stage. Combining facets of ballet, opera, masque and pantomime, this is a highly-technical skill and performers will have undertaken years of rigorous training.
Kalaripayattu: Kozhikode is renowned for Kalaripayattu – the only ancient form of martial arts still in existence. Kalaripayattu is a unique and magnificent art of physical culture and self-defence that is believed to have originated in the Vedic period about 5,000 years ago. It is believed that ancient Indian scholars have contributed six sciences, four Verdas, and 64 arts to mankind. The art of fighting is regarded an important component amongst these 64 art forms. The CVN Kalari Sangan, in the suburb of Nadakkavu in Kozhikode, gives demonstrations and offers 3-6 month training courses in Kalaripayattu.
Theyyattam, Kannur: Theyyattam is the oldest ritual art form of Kerala and is practiced during the winter months throughout the temples of Kannur. These dramatic spirit-possession ceremonies have over 450 manifestations with each having distinctly different costumes, make-up and music. This unique, ancient ritualistic folk art form is also a reflection of religious harmony in these parts, where some of the deities are Moplah Muslim heroes.
Culture & Heritage
Vaddukanatha Temple, Thrissur: This is a walled complex of shrines, the most important of which is dedicated to Lord Shiva. A classic example of Keralan architecture with pagoda-like roof beautiful decorated in carved wood. There are also some stunning murals. Non-Hindus are not permitted entry except during the annual Pooram in April - May.
Guruvayoor, Thrissur: The most important Krishna shrine in the state which hosts 24 festivals a year and attracts and huge number of pilgrims, all attired in white. Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple. The most important festival is Ekadashi, which is held in Nov/Dec. The temple is also famous for its elephant races and processions, especially in Feb/Mar.
Basilica of Our Lady of Dolores, Thrissur: This Roman Catholic Church with its three-storey façade and high steeples, towers above the town’s skyline. The church, built in 1875, has triple towers built in the Gothic style and mural paintings.
Lourdes Cathedral, Thrissur: This Syrian-Catholic church dates from 1885. Climb the 350 steps up the tower for spectacular views extending upto the foothills of the Ghats.
Shopping
Craft shopping in Thrissur: The town is one of the best places in the state for buying handicrafts made of wood, handloom, and Kerala’s distinctive free-standing
bell-metal oil lamps.
Spa & Ayurveda
Kalari Kovilakom: Situated about 20 kms south of Palakkad, Kalari Kovilakom is a highly reputed CGH Earth Ayurveda wellness centre, housed in a 125-year-old three-tiered palace.
Sports & Adventure:
Chembra Peak, Wayanad: Chembra, 18 kms west of Kalpetta and 2100m above sea level, is the tallest peak in Wayand and is an ideal area for a trekking. One day treks and two day wildlife treks are possible, unaccompanied or with a guide.
Wildlife & Nature
Silent Valley National Park, Palakkad: Silent Valley, 40kms north-west of Mannarkad, is a tiny national park of 90 sq kms which is believed to be India’s last substantial stretch of tropical evergreen forest. The pristine rainforests have more than 900 species of flowering plants and numerous species of birds, butterflies and animals including the rare lion-tailed macaque. This is an off-road trek and vehicles can only go upto Mukkali which is about 24 kms from the park. The rest must be covered by foot.
Wayand Wildlife Sanctuary: This sprawling wildlife sanctuary is divided into two zones – Muthanga and Tholpetty -- and is a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve. Muthanga wildlife sanctuary covers the southern part of the Wayanad reserve and is noted for elephants, deer, bear, and wild boar. It is managed and conserved with the assistance of the tribal communities living in and around the forest region. The Tholpetty wildlife sanctuary covers the northern section and is home to wild elephants, bison, sambar, macaques and langurs. Trekking or jeep safaris are possible within these two wildlife sanctuaries.
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