Red Dot Tours | Sri Lanka | Kandy highlights

Kandy

Snapshot

The hill-country capital of Kandy lies on a plain amidst towering hills and looped by Sri Lanka's largest river: the Mahaweli. The town’s pleasant temperate climate, its scenic location and its rich history has made it a favourite haunt for travellers. It is also the natural gateway to the stirring peaks of Sri Lanka’s hill country. For almost two centuries Kandy provided a safe haven for the proud Kandyan Kingdom, until it finally fell to the British in 1815. Now a tiny but bustling city, Kandy still regards itself as the bastion of Buddhist philosophy. During the month of August, Kandy dazzles with the sounds and lights of the Kandy Perehara – a magnificent procession where a sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha is majestically paraded on elephant back along the streets of Kandy.

Don’t Miss

A pooja at the Temple of the Tooth in honour of Lord Buddha

Kandyan dancing and drumbeats

A stroll around Kandy Lake

The Kandy Perehara, one of the finest cultural festivals in Asia

Roses and orchids in Peradeniya’s Botanical Gardens

Golf or other outdoor activities at Victoria’s scenic Golf & Country Club

Elephants bathing in the river in the Pinnewala elephant orphanage

Trekking in the magnificent Knuckles mountain range

Photo Gallery

Getting There

Kandy is a central destination from which other regions of the island can all be accessed. It is also the halfway point from Colombo to the hill-country town of Nuwara Eliya. Kandy can be accessed by train or car along the main Colombo – Kandy road. Useful drive times: Colombo to Kandy (3.5 hours); Kandy to Nuwara Eliya (3 hours); Kandy town to Victoria Golf & Country Club (45 minutes); Kandy town to Knuckles Range (1 hour); Kandy to Habarana (3 hours); Kandy to Galle (6-6.5 hours).

Historical Background

For two centuries Kandy’s monarchs, protected by Kandy’s natural forces of rivers, mountains and jungle, proudly withstood the onslaught of three European forces: the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. To this day it remains proud of its cultural heritage. The sacred tooth relic of Lord Buddha is enshrined here within the Dalanda Maligawa, also known as the Temple of the Tooth, that dates back to the 16th century. Kandy is also home to the Buddhist chapters of Mallwatte and Asgiriya. The Kandyan culture is distinctly different from the island’s coastal areas. An individual originally from this area is referred to as a `Kandyan’. Distinct differences can be seen in the family names, traditional rituals, cuisine, and even the way in which the traditional sari is draped. Kandy was made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988.

Sights

The ascend to Kandy past Kadugannawa is quite dramatic, past a ring of mountains including the Bible Rock, several hairpin bends lined with wayside fruit stalls and a hint of the spectacular scenery to come deeper into the hills. Once across the bridge over the Mahaweli River, the Botanical gardens with over 60 hectares of immaculately designed lawns and tropical foliage, and the Peradeniya campus of the University of Sri Lanka come into view. Beyond this is Kandy’s traffic-crammed main town, a contrast to Kandy’s quieter suburbs. The main attraction in the city is the magnificent Dalada Maligawa where a tooth relic of Lord Buddha is enshrined. The best time to visit is when a pooja (religious service) is being held at dawn, midday, or in the evening. The services are accompanied with traditional music and drumming. Golfers will love the Victoria Golf and Country Resort situated 30 minutes drive to the east of the town. The 18-hole challenging course is one of the most picturesque in Asia, ringed by a huge reservoir and impressive peaks. The surrounding hills such as Hantana and the Knuckles range are excellent for hiking, or even mountain biking or horse riding.

Accommodation

Kandy town has several respected mid-range hotels overlooking the picturesque Mahaweli River including the Chaaya Citadel, Mahaweli Reach, and the small boutique hotel. Amaya Hills, Randholee, Hotel Topaz and Thilanka are perched on hillocks overlooking Kandy town, with Amaya Hills the grander of the quartet. For those intent upon a sense of old colonial, the lakeside Suisse Hotel, housed in a colonial mansion which was at one time the residence of a British Governor, might appeal. Helga’s Folly – an individualistic slice of art nouveau overlooking Kandy Lake -- will appeal to those seeking an imaginative alternative to routine hotel life. The most luxurious option is arguably the Kandy House, a renovated manor house away from the main town which is widely praised.

Forty minutes east of Kandy is the Victoria Golf & Country Resort, one of the finest golf courses in Asia. Surrounded by the Knuckles Mountain Range and overlooking the Victoria reservoir, this is a self-contained holiday resort spread over 500 acres with recreational facilities and several holiday villas including the Tamarind Lodge, Bamboo, Sanctuary, and the Cligendael boutique hotel. Nature lovers might like to venture about half-an-hour beyond the Victoria Golf Club towards the Knuckles forest reserve where the Rangala House offers comfortable accommodation and Red Dot can arrange camping and trekking in spectacular mountains.

Food & Drink

Kandyan cuisine has a distinct flavor. Ambul Thiyal, for example, is a popular sour fish curry. Traditionally in the villages, lunch is taken to the fields, or for a special occasion, in a Kuruni basket with rice and curries wrapped in banana leaf. Most of the hotels and guest houses in Kandy offer Asian and western dishes. Chaaya Citadel is popular for their lunch time buffet and the Kandy House serves delicious fusion cusine.

Shopping

Kandy is not renowned for shopping, or for independent bars and restaurants, but it has the usual selection of small shops selling gems & jewellery, clothing and souvenirs. For traditional arts & crafts, we recommend buying direct from the villages, which therefore derive maximum benefit from the income. For cane and reed wear, try Wevaldeniya before you get to Kandy; for handmade brass wear including oil lamps and wall hangings, visit Gadaladeniya. Sri Lankan drums have regional variations and Kandyan drums are made in the village of Kurugala. Wall hangings and mats woven with intricate designs are found in the village of Dumbara.

Events

Kandy Perehara: In August each year, the spectacular Esala Perehara winds its way through the streets of Kandy. This is a time when tradition, religion, and the arts all come together in honour of Lord Buddha. For ten nights under the moonlit sky, Kandy dazzles. Musicians, dancers, Kandyan chieftains and hundreds of elephants dressed in glittering royal finery move to the rhythm of the Kandyan drums. Reels of white carpet are laid on the roads for one special elephant, the temple tusker that bears the tooth relic of Lord Buddha encased in a golden casket. This historic ritual is one of the finest festivals in Asia.

Donald Steel Golf Tournament: The annual Donald Steel Trophy takes place at the Victoria Golf & Country Resort in February. An anticipated event in the Sri Lanka Golf Calendar, this amateur golf tournament attracts more than 100 players from about 15 countries including golfers from the UK, Canada and New Zealand.

Activities

Kandyan Temples
The Temple of the Tooth, Gadaladeniya, Lankatillake, Embekke, and the Galengolla Potugul Viharaya are all ancient Buddhist temples that date back to the Kandyan Kingdom and are adorned with ornate columns, temple paintings and statues.

Kandyan Walawuas
Sprawling ancestral mansions (walawuas) passed down in generations still remain in the ownership of various Kandyan families. Notable features are the verandas, courtyards, columns and the `atuwa' or the granary which was used to store paddy. The Kandy House situated in Gunnapana owned by the Ratwatte family is an example of a magnificent walawua.

Ambalama (ancient rest for travellers)
The Karagahagedera Ambalama located near Kandy dates from the 16C and is one of the best preserved of what was once a vast network of free rest places. Most Ambalamas were built under the patronage of village or regional elite and maintained by the village. A pot of drinking water was on hand to quench the thirst of a tired traveller – a concept based on the Buddhist philosophy of `dhana’, the act of giving. The wooden structure at Karagahagedera Ambalama is perfectly balanced on granite boulders. The solid wooden 'seats' are polished smooth with centuries of use. The modern traveller can relax for hours looking out over the paddy fields. Depending on the season, the Ambalama provides front row seats to watch tilling or harvesting. If the harvest is in, ad-hoc village cricket may have taken over the field.

The Kandyan Art forms
Historically, the distinct Kandyan art forms and artisans have always been held in high esteem. The Kandyan dancer, drummer, musician, artist and the craftsman all contribute significantly to the vibrant culture and economy of the area. Daily Kandyan dance performances are held in town by the Temple of the Tooth.

Kandyan Crafts
Kandy’s artisans produce intricate crafts as cottage industries. Different villages in Kandy specialize in specific artistic skills that have been handed down to generations. Drum making is done in Kurugala, mat weaving in Dumbara and brass and silver wear and wood carving in Gadaladeniya. Cane and reed wear is produced in a village hamlet called Wewaldeniya which is enroute to Kandy. The roadside along the way is lined with small shops selling baskets, furniture and other house hold items. Visiting villages where these crafts are produced and purchasing directly from the source contributes towards enhancing their incomes as well as the preservation of these ancient crafts.

Kandy National Museum
Situated behind the Temple of the Tooth, in a building of historical and architectural interest, the Kandy’s National Museum provides a glimpse into the Kandyan period in the 17th-18th Century. Various items donated to the Sri Dalada Maligawa by kings, noblemen, and other devotees have been put on display. The upper levels of the building house rare manuscripts, Royal apparel, life-size models of the lost King and Queen of Kandy, and a variety of antiquities. The Museum is closed on Fridays & Saturdays.

Temple of the Tooth
Tradition relates that a sacred tooth relic of the Lord Buddha was brought to Sri Lanka in 4th Century A.D. and was enshrined within the Dalanda Maligawa, or the Temple of the Tooth. This sacred relic has ever since been the symbol of sovereignty for the Sinhalese kings and always enshrined in great splendour. Kandy’s Dalada Maligawa is a magnificent shrine, with decorative walls, golden roof and fine woodwork. Religious services (pooja) are held daily at dawn, midday, and in the evening and can be viewed by visitors. The services are accompanied with traditional music and drumming. Although the tooth relic cannot be seen within the temple as it is securely enshrined within, on the Esala full moon day of July/August each year, the sacred tooth relic, encased in a golden casket, is taken in procession (a perahara), on the back of the temple elephant along the streets of Kandy.

Tree of Life Hotel
The Ayurvedic centre here offers a range of Ayurvedic relaxing massages and curative treatments supervised by an in-house Ayurvedic physician. Treatments can be as simple as a one-off massage or involve analysis and treatment spanning several days.

Victoria Golf & Country Resort
The course’s accolades speak for themselves: ‘Best Course in Asia 2005’ Asian Golf monthly ranked in ‘Top 100 Most Beautiful courses in the World,’ by Golfers Digest. Set in the spectacular Kandyan hill country, about 40 minutes east of Kandy, this Donald Steel designed course is a true test of golfing ability. Victoria, at 6,290m, is much longer than the island’s other two courses and length off the tee is rewarded, particularly on the four par 4s, which measure more than 450m off the back markers. The front nine offers the hilliest section of the course - the narrow 2nd is particularly challenging. The back nine finds some of the most picturesque fairways at Victoria, threading their way through Jak tree forests, majestic Mara trees and pepper vines. Good caddies and cunning ball-finders are always at hand and professional coaching is available.

Trekking in the Knuckles
The Knuckles mountain range (so called because of its appearance resembles a set of knuckles in a closed fist) lies within the district of Kandy and Matale in central Sri Lanka. It consists of five mountain peaks with the highest point about 6,000 ft above sea level and spans about 155 sq kms. A wide variety of rare and endemic flora and fauna makes this wilderness area a storehouse of rich biodiversity. Red Dot can offer either a daily Knuckles trek or hill-country walking holidays for the serious trekker who yearns for get-away-from-it-all camping or for the gentle walker who likes a hot bath and a warm bar at the end of a contented and wearying day. Trek through dense forests, along rivers and waterfalls, past tea plantation and terraced paddy fields, and along the way, visit some of the small rural village communities.

Rafting the Seethawaka
An afternoon spent on the grade 4/5 water that flows down the Seethawaka Valley can be a highlight of your Sri Lankan holiday. The valley carves its way from the peak wilderness in the north towards Avissawella, making it an easy day trip from Kandy. The journey takes you deep into the rubber and tea plantations of the Kandyan foothills. The river is fast with long stretches of violent white water, several daunting drops, and even some grade 5 rapids. However, between the excitement of one rapid and the next there is the peace and tranquility of one of Sri Lanka’s most beautiful rivers. You can even jump from the boat and drift down stream, although expect some strange looks from the tea pickers on the hills above you. This activity is recommended for those with reasonable fitness and preferably some rafting experience. Available during or just after the rainy season.

Nilambe Meditation Centre
Located in Galaha, approximately 20 kms south of Kandy, the Nilambe Meditation center offers guided meditation retreats. There is a daily set schedule of meditation classes and visitors not intending to learn meditation are not encouraged. Vegetarian meals and accommodation is available. It is recommended that you take your own bedding (a sleeping bag), although a blanket is provided, and a flashlight as there is no electricity. A large library of books and a tape library are available. Beautifully positioned with great views, Nilambe Meditation Center is ideal for those who are serious about meditation and is reached via a steep 3 km walk through tea plantations.

Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage
Pinnewala Elephant Orphanage near Kandy was et-up to protect the island’s abandoned or orphaned wild elephants. From small, modest origins it has grown into one of Sri Lanka’s most famous attractions. Pinnewala enthralls adults and children alike. Roaming free within the Sanctuary, except when occasionally shepherded by their Mahouts (keepers) the elephants’ highlight is their regular bathing sessions. The sight of herds of elephants splashing and playing in a river has charmed countless tourists.

Kandy Royal Botanical Gardens
Just outside Kandy in Peradeniya are the magnificent Royal Botanical Gardens. First conceived as a Queen’s pleasure garden in the 14th century, and a Kandyan Prince’s residence in the 18th century the gardens were formally opened under their current guise in 1821. Walking around these tranquil, immaculately-designed lawns, borders, pavilions and plant houses, you could easily think you are in Kew, such is the English feel, but the heat and extraordinary diversity of the tropical plants give the game away. Whether you have green-fingers or not, the gardens can delight. If it is not the rare Coco de Mer that is your highlight, it could easily be the bat-filled trees. The Botanical Gardens are as popular with Sri Lankans and tourists alike, and they are large enough to guarantee that there is shady seating available for each visitor. Easy to visit by foot, there is also the option of taking a tour by cattle-drawn carriage.

Udawattekelle Sanctuary
To the north of Kandy Lake lies Udawattakele Sanctuary. Unique because it is effectively a rainforest within a city, Udawattakele is ideal for those who enjoy exploration at an easy pace. Alongside the forest’s paths is a plethora of exotic flora and fauna. This is by no means over-developed as an attraction, and amorous young couples may be seen out for romantic strolls or hidden liaisons.