Some people may joke that train travel in Sri Lanka is for people with little money and lots of time, but for tourists it is a wonderfully appealing mode of travel, especially in the island’s highlands where the scenery can be breathtaking at times. The downside is that for some routes the train can be slower than a car and delays are common.

The railway network, which began operating in 1864, comprises nine lines radiating from Colombo, the most beautiful of which runs deep into the hills, travelling via Kandy and Nuwara Eliya before terminating in Badulla. This journey offers spectacular hill-country views as the train winds its way past gushing waterfalls and through neatly-clipped tea estates. There is also a useful train line for tourists travelling along the south coast from Colombo to Matara which stops in Bentota and Galle. There is also a train to Trincomalee, which travels through the Cultural Triangle, but travelling by car is preferable in terms of comfort and time.

There is a special first-class observatory carriage on the Colombo to Dabulla hill-country train. This is the last carriage on the train which has a full window to maximise the views. Tickets need to be booked at least 10 days in advance. Note that availability can be limited during national holidays.

The main advantage of travelling in the first class carriage – not available on the south coast route – is that you can book in advance and be guaranteed a seat. However, as long as you avoid the peak commuter trains in the morning and evening, second class travel is also enjoyed by many, although you have to be prepared for some jostling on the station platform.

Train travel in Sri Lanka is priced by the sector which means the rates are very simple and also extremely good value. First-class travel from Colombo to Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Badulla, Anuradhapura or Trincomalee costs just £5 per person for a single ticket. In addition, for advance bookings, Red Dot charges a £10 administration fee per booking to cover the costs of sending a representative to book your tickets. A second class ticket to Galle or Matara costs just £2.

For the ultimate in luxury old-world train travel you can even travel on Sri Lanka’s only passenger steam train, the 75-year-old Viceroy Special. The private train has two-air-conditioned observational saloons furnished in period style with 64 plush reclining seats and individual adjustable tables. Each saloon has an adjoining smoking lounge and modern toilet. There is a restaurant carriage complete with Edwardian ribbed fans and teak-trimmed wood paneling.