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Tirwa / Kannauj
Tirwa sits on the road into Kannauj, Uttar Pradesh's centre of perfume making for over a thousand years and a truly unique stop on an itinerary.
Kannauj's attar is still distilled the traditional way, flower petals steamed in copper pots called degs, the vapour drawn off through bamboo pipes into collecting vessels known as bhapkas. Rose, jasmine and vetiver are worked this way, a trade that flourished under the Mughals and once supported hundreds of distilleries. Many have closed as synthetic perfumes have taken over the market, but a number still operate traditionally and we have access to visit some of them.
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Where is Tirwa / Kannauj
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