A Journey Through India: Delhi, Uttar Pradesh & Beyond

Delhi – The Perfect Beginning

Delhi is a wonderful place to start any India itinerary. I love immersing myself in the bustle of Chandni Chowk markets, tasting authentic Indian street food and sampling new fine-dining restaurants. For a culture enthusiast like me, Delhi never disappoints. I revisited Humayun’s Tomb and Jantar Mantar but, this time, I also made a stop at the Lotus Temple.

Entry is free, and it’s open to all, a sanctuary symbolising humanity, inclusivity and peace. Located about 45 minutes from central Delhi, the temple is worth every second of the journey. The calm atmosphere offered a moment of reflection before my onward travels into Uttar Pradesh.

Agra & The Timeless Taj Mahal

Of course, I couldn’t drive past Agra without paying respects to the Taj Mahal. No matter how many times I’ve seen it, its beauty takes my breath away. It truly is bucket-list worthy, one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World, and a must-see when planning a luxury India holiday.

From Delhi, you can easily visit Agra en route to the Chambal Safari Lodge, just an hour’s drive away. This way, you can admire the Taj without needing to overnight in Agra.

Chambal Safari Lodge – A Hidden Gem in Nature

After the intensity of city life, I was ready for nature. Chambal Safari Lodge is intimate, characterful, and surrounded by lush gardens filled with blooming flowers. Copper-smith barbets nest in the trees, and warm hospitality welcomes you instantly.

At sunrise, I set off on a Chambal River safari, spotting Indian skimmers, pied kingfishers, the endangered gharial crocodile, and even the elusive Ganges river dolphin. It was magical, I could have stayed on that boat forever. Later, I visited the Bateshwar Temples at sunset, their silhouette reflected in the Yamuna River reminding me of a miniature Varanasi. As we take in the view, a tiny scoop owl appears above us, surveying us curiously.

Dudhwa National Park – Untouched Wilderness

Next, I travelled towards the Nepalese border to Dudhwa National Park, staying at the elegant Jaagir Manor. On the way, I stopped in Kannauj, the perfume capital of India, where I witness ancient distillation techniques using regional flowers, herbs and spices to create heavenly fragrances ready to be exported worldwide. Watching generations of artisans at work gave me a newfound appreciation for my simple morning spray of perfume.

Dudhwa itself was extraordinary, an 811 sq. km sanctuary that remains wonderfully untouched by mass tourism and is a testament to inspirational conservation efforts. Within my first safari, I spotted a tiger, a sloth bear and a one-horned rhino, three of India’s famed “Big Five.” Add to that 450 bird species, elephants, leopards, and more, and Dudhwa is a wildlife-lover’s dream. The manor’s refined charm and attentive staff made it a luxurious base to experience such pristine wilderness.

Lucknow – A Culinary Capital

From nature to gastronomy, my journey continued to Lucknow, a city famous for its bustling bazaars, textiles, art, and legendary cuisine. Dining here is a revelation—velvety kormas, melt-in-your-mouth kebabs, and fragrant dum-style biryanis that reflect the city’s royal Nawabi heritage. For food lovers, Lucknow is unmissable.

Prayagraj – A Hidden Gem

From Lucknow, I travelled to Prayagraj (formerly Allahabad), one of the host cities of the Kumbh Mela, the world’s largest spiritual gathering. Although I arrived after the main festival, pilgrims still bathed in the sacred rivers and saffron-clad sadhus walked barefoot through the streets.

The city surprised me with its vibrant, story-telling murals and the serene Khusro Bagh, a Mughal-era walled garden with exquisite sandstone mausoleums. It felt like a hidden gem of Uttar Pradesh, far removed from the usual tourist trail. That evening, I stayed just outside Prayagraj at a colonial planter’s bungalow surrounded by mango and guava orchards. Quirky, storied and deeply atmospheric, it was the perfect countryside retreat.

Varanasi – A Spiritual Finale

No journey through India feels complete without Varanasi, one of the oldest living cities in the world. Arriving by boat along the Ganges River, I instantly felt the city’s magnetic energy.

In the evening, I joined the crowds for the Ganga Aarti ceremony, where saffron-robed priests chant mantras, light oil lamps and perform rituals with fire to honour the river goddess, Ganga. It was deeply moving. The following day, with a local guide, I explored Varanasi’s labyrinthine streets, hidden temples, yoga studios and painted murals, my guide bringing every corner to life with his fascinating insights.

For me, Varanasi is essential to any luxury India itinerary, a place of devotion, history and deep spiritual beauty.

Reflecting on India

Flying back to Delhi and onwards to the UK, I already missed India. Each journey here deepens my love for this extraordinary country. From the luxury of boutique lodges to the untamed wilderness of national parks, from royal cuisines to ancient temples, this trip once again proved what I always know: India never fails to deliver.