What We Love About Varanasi

Why go

To visit Varanasi is to walk through centuries. It is an ancient city – Hindus, Buddhists and Jains alike make pilgrimages and perform the sacred rituals of bathing in the Ganges and cremating their loved ones on the ghats. Beyond the spiritual, Varanasi’s energy is an often chaotic mixture of music, food, silk and tradition.

You don’t need to arrive with a spiritual quest to feel something stir. The sun sparkles off of the city’s golden spires. Incense smoke curls from temples. And the echo of ragas drifts out from hidden music schools. Varanasi captivates all who wander in.

Things to do in Varanasi

Old City

In the tangled heart of the old city, shops spill out with trinkets and yellow bursts of marigold garlands, used in all sorts of Hindu ceremonies. Cows wander freely. Twisting through the maze of laneways, you pass countless shrines before reaching the revered Kashi Vishvanath Temple with its gold-spired roof. This is the spiritual core of Varanasi. While only Hindus may enter, its presence radiates outwards.

Ghats

The ghats, or the steps along the Ganges, are where life happens in public. You might see a morning aarti with priests waving flaming lamps or mourners lighting pyres in the sacred fire of Manikarnika Ghat. But daily life continues among it all, too: kids playing cricket and chai sellers doing a brisk trade.

Sarnath

A short day trip outside of Varanasi brings you to the site where the Buddha is believed to have taught after he first reached enlightenment. Sarnath draws visitors and Buddhist pilgrims from around the world to the Dhamek Stupa, a cylindrical stone tower at the centre of the site, set among lawns and walkways. This is where the sermon is believed to have been given. Around it, a quiet network of monasteries continues to function, some built nearly a century ago. During a visit, guests are often invited to sit with the monks during a blessing, which includes chanting in Pali, a flickering oil lamp, and sometimes a red thread tied gently around your wrist for good luck or protection.

Music

Varanasi’s music tradition runs deep. Musicians learn through repetition rather than notation, and lessons are held in tucked-away homes and courtyards. A visit includes listening in while the musicians learn, and you may also be invited to ask questions. Afterwards, there is a performance of the shehnai, a woodwind instrument similar to the oboe that was once only played at temples and during weddings. It still played here by students of Bismillah Khan’s lineage.

Varanasi silk

In the town of Sarai Mohana, known as the ‘weavers’ colony’, silk is spun into brocades fit for gods. Watch as artisans coax intricate patterns from hand-operated looms, creating incredible saris – a disappearing craft from the time of the Mughal courts.

Riverside yoga

For something more grounding, rise early for a personalised yoga session beside the Ganges. As the city stirs and the river glows in the golden hour, your breath will sync with the ancient rhythm of this place.

Puja Ceremony

A puja is a kind of Hindu prayer ceremony to connect with the divine through simple gestures. These are usually held in smaller temples, where visitors can sometimes take part in a private ceremony during which a priest might light incense or a brass lamp, ring a small bell and then chant Sanskrit verses. There might be marigolds or a bowl of ghee or grains pressed into your palm. You sit nearby, usually on the floor, and follow along – some priests invite a short mantra or offer a blessing at the end, often marked by a red thread tied around the wrist.

Where to Stay

Brijrama Palace

This hotel in an 18th-century sandstone palace stands along the Ganges and is only accessible by boat. Inside, it’s a vision of carved balconies, frescoed ceilings and flickering candlelight. Morning tea is served to live classical music and uninterrupted views of river rituals passing below.

Taj Nadesar Palace

The 1835 residence of royalty and statesmen, this palace-turned-hotel is surrounded by mango orchards and jasmine gardens. Its historic grandeur is tempered by impeccable service and a dreamy spa, perfect after a day of navigating Varanasi’s intensity.

Nilay House

For something more intimate, this small inn is a peaceful retreat run by a local couple who pour warmth into every detail. Set just beyond the chaos of the old city, it’s an oasis of thoughtful design, home-cooked meals and deep local knowledge.

What to Eat

To understand Varanasi, you need to eat on its streets. Join a curated food walk to uncover the city’s culinary soul – you’ll definitely want a guide. The names alone are poetry: malaiyo, a cloudlike winter dessert so delicate it melts before you can even describe it; tamatar chaat, a sweet-sour-spicy tangle of crushed tomatoes, spices and crunchy bits; kalakand, rich milk fudge with a nutty bite. There’s also malai toast, syrup-drenched maalpuas pancakes, fiery gol-gappas (pani puri), and the iconic banarasi paan to cleanse the palate – all served with storytelling by the families who’ve perfected these recipes over generations.

If you’d rather linger, cafes and rooftop restaurants across the city serve up thalis and lassis with views over the Ganges. But the real flavour of Varanasi is found among the locals, elbow-to-elbow at a busy food stall, spoon in hand, eyes wide with delight.